Close-up of hardneck garlic scapes showing the distinctive curled loop, indicating they are ready for harvesting.
Growing your own garlic is one of the most rewarding experiences in the garden. You get the anticipation of planting in the fall, watching the green shoots emerge in spring, maybe even enjoying a bonus harvest of delicious scapes, and finally, pulling those beautiful bulbs from the soil. But for many gardeners, the big question is, how do you know when garlic is ready to harvest? Getting the timing right is crucial for maximizing the size, flavor, and storage life of your homegrown garlic. It’s a balance – harvest too early and your bulbs will be small and won’t store well; wait too long and the protective wrappers can degrade, leaving the cloves exposed and prone to rot.
Here’s what you need to know to nail the perfect garlic harvest timing:
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If you’re growing hardneck garlic (known for thriving in colder climates and having a central woody stalk), you get a delightful extra harvest opportunity a few weeks before the main event: garlic scapes. These are the curly flower stalks that emerge from the top of the plant.
Garlic scapes typically appear in late spring or early summer, depending on your location and climate. You’ll easily spot them as stiff, round stalks curling out from the main plant. They often look like a smaller, more elegant version of a green onion top, sometimes forming a distinctive loop or spiral. The perfect time to harvest scapes is when they have just completed their first curl or loop.
To harvest, simply cut the scape off at the point where it emerges from the top set of leaves or the main stalk. Using clean garden snips makes this an easy task. If you let scapes straighten out, they become tougher and less flavorful.
Beyond being a delicious ingredient (perfect for pesto, stir-fries, or grilling!), harvesting scapes is crucial for getting the biggest possible garlic bulbs. The plant puts a lot of energy into producing that flower stalk and eventually seeds. By removing the scape, you redirect all that energy back down to the developing bulb underground, leading to a larger, healthier garlic harvest later on. Even if you don’t plan to eat them, it’s a good practice to snip those scapes!
After you’ve harvested the scapes (if you’re growing hardneck), you can expect your garlic bulbs to be ready in about 3-5 weeks. For softneck varieties (which don’t produce scapes and are often preferred in warmer climates), you’ll rely solely on leaf indicators.
This is the most reliable method for determining when your garlic is ready. Pay close attention to the leaves at the base of the plant. As the bulbs mature and swell, the plant starts diverting energy, and the lower leaves will naturally begin to yellow and die back. These drying leaves become the protective papery wrappers around the finished bulb.
The rule of thumb most experienced garlic growers follow is this: When the bottom two leaves are completely dry, brown, and withered, and a third leaf is starting to yellow or show signs of dying back, your garlic is typically ready to pull.
Sometimes the very first leaf can be hard to see as it’s right at the soil line and may have already decomposed slightly. Just keep an eye on the pattern of dieback moving up the stalk. This leaf signal is generally true for both hardneck and softneck types.
Pulling garlic before the leaves give the signal means the bulbs likely haven’t reached their full potential size. The cloves may not be as plump, and the crucial papery wrappers won’t have fully formed and dried around the bulb. This lack of protective layers significantly reduces the bulb’s storage life, making it more susceptible to drying out or rotting.
Waiting too long past the ideal harvest window also has drawbacks. The outer wrappers can start to disintegrate in the moist soil, leaving the bulb less protected. In extreme cases, the cloves might even start to separate from the base, making storage very difficult. Overly mature garlic can also sometimes have a stronger, less nuanced flavor. It’s a narrow window, but focusing on those dying leaves gives you the best chance of hitting the sweet spot.
Once the leaves tell you it’s time, harvesting requires a bit of care to avoid damaging the bulbs. Bruised bulbs don’t store well.
While some hardneck varieties with thick, sturdy stalks can sometimes be pulled straight from the ground in very loose soil, it’s generally safer and recommended to use a tool. A sturdy trowel or a small garden shovel works well, especially for softneck varieties or if your soil is at all compacted.
Insert your trowel or shovel into the soil a few inches away from the garlic stalk. Position the tool so you are lifting underneath where you estimate the bulb to be. Gently push down on the tool’s handle to leverage and loosen the soil around and below the bulb. Avoid prying directly on or right next to the bulb itself. Once the soil feels loose, you should be able to grasp the stalk firmly at the base and gently pull the bulb up from the ground. Remove any large clumps of soil by hand, but avoid washing the bulbs at this stage, as moisture can encourage rot during curing.
If a stalk breaks off during harvesting (which can happen!), you’ll need to carefully dig in the disturbed soil to locate the buried bulb. Taking care during the lifting process minimizes this risk. Mulching your garlic bed earlier in the season can help keep the soil looser for easier harvest.
Sometimes, despite your best efforts, curious garden visitors like squirrels or other rodents might dig up a freshly planted clove or even a ripening bulb. They don’t typically eat the garlic because they dislike the strong smell, but they can cause damage by disturbing the soil or leaving bulbs exposed. A layer of straw mulch can sometimes help deter them.
Harvesting is only the first step! For your garlic to store well for months, it needs to be properly cured. Curing is simply the process of drying the bulbs.
Immediately after harvesting, move your garlic to a cool, dry location with good air circulation. Do not cut off the stalks or roots yet, and do not wash the bulbs. You can lay them out on drying racks, or tie them in bunches by their stalks and hang them. Garages, sheds, or covered porches work well, as long as they are protected from rain and direct sun, which can burn the bulbs. Cure garlic for about 2-4 weeks, or until the stalks and roots are completely dry and the wrappers are papery.
Once fully cured, your garlic is ready for cleaning and long-term storage. Gently brush off any remaining dirt. You can remove the outermost, dirtiest layer or two of the papery wrapper, but leave enough layers to keep the bulb intact. Trim the roots close to the base of the bulb and cut the stalk about an inch or two above the bulb.
Store cleaned garlic in a cool (ideally 50-60°F or 10-15°C), dry, dark place with good ventilation. Mesh bags, paper bags, or even old egg cartons work well. Avoid storing in plastic bags or airtight containers, which trap moisture and lead to spoilage. Properly cured and stored garlic can last for many months!
Mastering how to know when garlic is ready to harvest is a key skill for any home gardener. By observing the simple cues from the plant’s leaves – particularly the critical stage when the bottom two leaves are dry and a third is beginning to die back – you can ensure you pull your bulbs at their peak. Follow up with careful harvesting and proper curing, and you’ll be enjoying the fruits of your labor for months to come!
What are your favorite signs that your garlic is ready? Share your tips in the comments below! And if you’re looking for more gardening inspiration or tips, be sure to explore other articles on Thelittle.garden!
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